Following in the footsteps of a successful Milan fashion post (another exciting one coming tomororw), OC thought she'd present to our readers another dimension of the cobbled streets.
You see, for the traveler, Milan is more than the Dan Brown painting, the Dan Brown church, smog, and bad plastic surgery. If you happen to find yourself in centro (in town center) this summer, OC's highlighted just a tiny smattering of her favorite stores, all extremely accessible (a few blocks away) from il duomo. Without mentioning the obvious (Peck, anything on via della Spiga/Via Montenapoleone/Corso & Galleria Vittorio Emanuele) here are a few of the underdogs that are frequented by the hardcore Milanese:
Giovanni Galli, Via Victor Hugo 2. They make the freshest, (and most $$$) marron glacé: candied chestnuts, oozing wtih sugary goodness that explode when you bite into their juicy, soft goodness. el oh el. Served with a side of edible, candied violets. omg. You can also find like every gourmet sweet and chocolate native to Italy littering the small shelves. In addition to boxes of marron glacé, bars of Dolfin Green Tea chocolate bars, OC always stuffs her suitcase to NYC with Bi. Biel canestrelli, ipod-sized chocolate wafers with a dark chocolate layer in between. But don't try to whip-out the AmEx, as it's cash only in this old-skool establishment. From the display window at Galli, see the image below of marron glacé:
(Below are the canestrelli Bi. Biel, specialita' di Biella)
The next place that OC likes to drop into is the awesome Rosticceria Leoni on Corso Venezia 7. Plopped between Diesel, Prada, and D&G in a tiny little slice of a store, this rosticceria is invaluable to Sunday lunches (don't even bother showing-up Sunday after 11am & take--out only). The entire back wall is a gigantic, beautiful open pit of fire, with dozens of whole chicken roasting over the flames. You go here, of course, for the fresh roasted chicken, but also for the taste bud-blowing roasted potatoes and vegetables (all sautéed in loads of tasty, sweet butter). Also the hand-made potato chips in white waxed bags. Also the gnocchi alla romana. Also the panna cotta served in plastic cups. Holy crap, you've never tasted anything as good as Leoni's panna cotta. The caramel has been caramelized by the smoke from the pit, which infuses the entire dessert in a delicate, smoked flavor.
Then we have the irreplaceable cartoleria Pettinaroli next to Piazza San Fedele (entrance via C. Marino) for everything stationary. It's beyond elegant, with the same hushed interior of a library. OC goes here for cards, which rotate as the seasons turn (if you come here xmas time, you are in for a treat). But they always keep stocked antique Italian cards (see below), which are especially great for souvenirs, about 3 ⬠each. Of course, for more selection there is the supurb Carteria Tassotti, a chain of Italian stationary store that displays some of the sweetest cards ever (ours is in Corso Garibaldi, stocked with such beautiful things). There is also the insanely old-skool Pineider on Corso Europa, which is off tha hook.
You can find beautiful sketched cards at Pettinaroli of Teatro alla Scala, found here below:
Another Teatro alla Scala card from Pettinaroli (omg whare r teh roads??!!):
Lastly, we love this little watch-shop because they do the work on-the-spot and only charge you for the parts (yah, in Milan unfortunately it's not like the NYC cobblers who replace your high-heel caps in 5 minutes for $5). And it's just soooo kewl! Set into the side of the huge Piazza Marconi facade (facing Duomo), it's Laboratorio Orologeria Duomo, right next to the new Super Duomo Mondadori. Sometimes Milan can be so bootleg it hurts. But we <3 it.
//btw, none of you tourist guides better try to steal my sh*t...ya heard?
///and per the usual, all images and photographs above are protected by copyright and intellectual property rights, which are controlled by Opera Chic. tia tia k bi