Opera Chic braved the flocks of fashion editors and stylists and buyers that descended upon her favorite Milan restaurants this weekend (we were happily relieved -- for a few reasons, this Milano Moda Donna was less crowded than past years). She had a craving for Cucina delle Langhe's creamy & delicate bagna càuda and would have even sat on Elle fashion editor Kate Lanphear's lap (she was a few tables over) if that was the only seat left in the restaurant (and if Kate didn't mind).
Bagna càuda is a dish of the poor, unironically served in Milan's oldskool restaurants with a price tag that radically evolves it from peasant food. Liquid velvet, smooth and creamy, it's a delicate blend of anchovies, garlic, and extra virgin olive oil. A Piemontese dish, eaten in the winter and fall months with a side of winter vegetables: fennel, radishes, beets, carrots, celery, cauliflower, and peppers. Served in a terracotta bowl with a candle beneath to keep the mixture fluid and warm, it's so perfect with a strong Nebbiolo, Barbaresco or a Dolcetto. OC will literally stab your hand with her fork if you try to step to her anchovy sauce. All's fair in love and bagna càuda.
Comfort food? Yes indeed and... even more! I suggest this to anyone and everyone. It is simply divine!
Posted by: nick | February 28, 2010 at 08:49 PM
That looks heavenly.
Posted by: doug e. | March 01, 2010 at 03:29 AM
Delizioso. But in NY hard to find cardoons for bagna caôda, let alone the dwarf variety from Piemonte.
Posted by: Oroveso | March 01, 2010 at 03:34 AM
Mmm...I am SO jealous!
Posted by: Francesca | March 01, 2010 at 06:13 AM
My mouth is watering!! There are recipies online. http://www.italianmade.com/recipes/recipe75.cfm but is it possible to get the right kind of anchovies here in the States?
Posted by: Susan | March 01, 2010 at 03:12 PM
Had Bagna Cauda at the Olympics in Torino in 2006 (Piedmont). Awesome stuff.
Posted by: Puck Swami | March 01, 2010 at 11:47 PM
A little nosy here, but I find myself wondering if the OC is independently wealthy or just happens to make a good living....
All the jet-setting and couture posts make me curious.
Posted by: lululu | March 02, 2010 at 01:41 AM
During the 1670's the House of Savoy was headed by a regent, the mother of the heir, who styled herself "Madama reggente" or just plan "Madama". She took a great liking to bagna cauda & introduced it to court. Along with the traditional raw vegetables, eggs, & polenta for dipping, her chefs introduced meats, cheeses, and sea food. The peasant dish achieved such popularity amongst the Torino nobility that it became the preferred opera nibble. It was prepared in the boxes & the foyers of the Teatro Regio to such an extent that contemporary accounts remark on the strong odor of garlic which permeated the theater.
Posted by: fignaz | March 02, 2010 at 03:02 PM
Oh, drool... haven't had bagna cauda since I was a student. And tonight I get to sup on A Sandwich (though at least it is because I'm on my way to the Royal Opera House). Drool. Sigh. Drool.
Posted by: Imogen dent | March 02, 2010 at 06:00 PM
Mmmmmm, indeed. We love Tuscan cuisine (especially the Chinaglia, but other stuff as well), and believe the food from Emiliga-Romagna is justly celebrated but for us Piedmontese cuisine is king (pun intended), and the Bagna Cauda so mouthwateringly described by OC is just one illustration why. As circumstances will have it we will be in central Europe shortly and have procured entrance to La Scala for a performance of Tannhauser. Thanks to OC, we have now taken a decision as to where we will be dining.
Posted by: Furst | March 03, 2010 at 02:31 AM